Water Level Modulation of Wave Transformation, Setup and Runup Over La Saline Fringing Reef
نویسندگان
چکیده
Coral reefs represent an efficient natural mechanical coastal defense against ocean waves. The focus of this study is La Saline fringing coral reef, located in the microtidal West Réunion Island Indian Ocean, frequently exposed to Southern Ocean swell and cyclonic events. aim provide a better understanding reef's characteristics for several Pressure sensors were placed across reef measure water level fluctuations wave transformation. A numerical model (XBeach surfbeat), validated using field observations, was used deepen transformation, setup runup. Field measurements outputs show that as gravity waves dissipate over frequency-dependent dissipation infragravity by bottom-friction occurs, acts low-pass filter. Wave-induced found be dominant hydrodynamic component. Setup runup are each 98% 79% driven offshore significant height, 2% 21% tide. modulation main contributor reef. At semidiurnal timescales, antiphase with tidal variations lower levels result higher energy dissipation, Simple-to-use transfer functions relating incident these components proposed. effects bottom friction on defensive capacity highlight future implications structural damage sea rise.
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ژورنال
عنوان ژورنال: Journal Of Geophysical Research: Oceans
سال: 2022
ISSN: ['2169-9275', '2169-9291']
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1029/2022jc018570